MICHAEL DAVIS WORLD

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“To Be” is an Action Verb – Sunset Observer #35, by Whitney Farmer – Un Pop Culture | @MDWorld

October 22, 2014 Whitney Farmer 3 Comments

2014-10-22 00.51.02@farmer_whitney (Twitter/FLICKR) or farmerwhitney (Instagram) and Facebook

#iLoveGypsies

We had only been settled into the Gypsy camp for a few hours when the gendarmes arrived and told the community we all had to leave in the morning.

They were encamped this year in Grenoble at the base of the French Alps.  When we had arrived late the night before from the train from Madrid, it had been raining. Not enough to make us worry about our supplies getting damaged before we were able to transport them from the train station to our hostel. But it rained enough to let us smell the scent of softened earth instead of dust.

We had planned on staying with the Gypsies hopefully five days. It is never enough, but a heart has the capacity to always come back for more love…even if it will include a goodbye. The hope for a future ‘Bon Jour!’ is what had brought me back again each year.

Our tents had been set up near the crossroads of the two main trails that the caravans used to enter the wide meadow before fanning out and encamping. There were perhaps 100 white trailers – representing maybe 400 people. So this wasn’t a large ‘reunion’, as they call it.

As we were setting up our area, the children began to arrive. They wanted to practice the English they had been learning from our friend Carla, a former software engineer and teacher from the Santa Ana school district who is traveling with them for fourteen months and giving them free education. We had arrived with school supplies for her as well as with the intention to give her some help and rest. The kids are often prohibited from going to school by officials. To get an education is their heart’s desire, and they are eager for any chance or circumstance they have to learn. A teacher’s dream…if the teacher can ever have a day off or privacy to use the bucket and bag in the toilet tent without interruption.

We wanted to give Carla a bit of a vacation. And we couldn’t wait to get those kids into our arms again.

They arrived beautifully dressed for company, with their hair combed and with ribbons. One arrived dressed as a cheerleader to celebrate our arrival, carrying a princess umbrella to shield us from either brutal sunshine or rain – depending on the moment. Kirsten arrived. I hadn’t seen her in almost two years, but I watched her walk through the crowd and I knew she was looking for me. I went down on my knees in front of her and saw her brown eyes and her dimples for only a moment before her arms were around my neck. Later in the night during the evening service under the church tent, she would sit on my lap and let me squeeze her and braid her hair for about two hours.

Sometime as we were setting up and the children were jostling for attention, someone got hurt on her leg and began to cry. She limped towards me so that I could bear witness. Out came the first aid kit. I used chilly alcohol pads to wash away the dirt and – despite seeing no evidence of any broken skin – I blew gently on her wound before applying some ointment and a bandaid, giving one last hug for bravery.

Soon an epidemic of clumsiness broke out amongst the Gypsy children. They were dropping like flies and we were in a triage crisis. All care was done with kisses. And when our supply of alcohol swabs was exhausted, we still blew on shins and knees, (just in case), before applying bandaids that were worn like Olympic medals throughout the camp and into the community meeting tent that night.

The next morning, we woke and began to pack. We had wanted to do so much but could do nothing. With no car, we decided against migrating with them. It would have required one of the leaders to drive forty miles, unpack his family, and return to transport us. And then we would have to reverse the process again in a very few days to catch our train. I couldn’t reconcile their willingness to let us become a literal burden that needed to be carried. We offloaded our supplies, helped our host pack up their site, and settled onto the grass near where the two roads intersected. From there, we could watch everyone drive away until they were gone from sight.

At first we were quiet. We had never seen how a migration works. I joked with our host that now I am one step closer to being a professional Gypsy instead of just an amateur. Logistically, there are professional Gypsy skills that we watched in full display. Their small white town began to rapidly disappear. That they had paid for lawful rights to encamp there never was mentioned. They simply complied with the authorities when they were asked to leave.

Soon a traffic jam developed as vehicles waited for the highway light to change to green. As the vehicles idled, I saw a tiny silhouette in one of the cars. It was one of the kids, still and sad. I waived at her until she saw me. And then she began to wave and to throw me kisses. This was something I could do. I threw kisses and smiles until she was out of sight.

At this crossroads, we began to create a goodbye that was as enthusiastic as the hello they had given us. Soon kids were hanging out the windows as we called out “Dieu te benisse!” and “Merci!” and “Je t’aime!” while throwing smiles and waves and kisses. Kirsten was one of the last I watched leave.

All this time, from then until now, I haven’t cried.  Until this moment.

In French, when you conjugate a verb, it is paired with either avoir, “to have”, or être, “to be”.

As in, “I have learned.”

The distinction is whether it is an action verb, and whether that action can be connected to a real event or object or place.

As in, “I went to France to see the Gypsies.”

In French, you say, “I am gone to France to see the Gypsies…” rather than, “I have gone…”

If a verb is an action verb, it is not something that you possess, that you ‘have’. It is something that you become. It is what you…are.

I am going to love the Gypsies. Always.

Photo of me looking at Kirsten’s hurt leg before applying a bandaid, in the Gypsy camp outside Grenoble, France. Courtesy of Jesse Vail.

For the archive of my previous Un Pop Culture blogs, click here:

https://mdwp.malibulist.com/category/un-pop-culture/

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Comments

  1. Mike Gold
    October 22, 2014 - 4:41 pm

    No wonder I find French so damn confusing.

  2. Moriarty
    October 23, 2014 - 9:11 am

    Now that was writing.

    “… the scent of softened earth…”

    “…bandaids that were worn like Olympic medals.” This passage was ripe for cliché but you didn’t fall for it. Nice.

    “It was one of the kids, still and sad.” Great economy of words.

    Thanks for sharing the gypsies story and the French lesson.

    What a great word gendarmes is. I had to look it up. A much more elegant than cops.

    Outofwrightfield.blogspot.com

  3. Whitney
    October 23, 2014 - 7:35 pm

    Moriarty –

    I has troubles coming back this time. Caught pneumonia which tends to make me quiet and grim. Not a good place from which to write. So…thank you. And I am feeling much better.

    Good blog from you, BTW. You wrote what needed to be written.

  4. Whitney
    October 23, 2014 - 7:36 pm

    Had …grrr…typo…

  5. Whitney
    October 23, 2014 - 7:39 pm

    Golden Boy –

    I thought you were mad at me. I’m glad you stopped in for a awhile…

  6. Mike gold
    October 23, 2014 - 7:41 pm

    Why would I be mad at you? More to the point, how is that even possible?

  7. Mike gold
    October 23, 2014 - 7:41 pm

    Why would I be mad at you? More to the point, how is that even possible?

  8. Moriarty
    October 24, 2014 - 8:45 am

    Whitney,

    I thought your use of has instead of had was just your translation back to English from French. Perhaps suggesting a presence tense instead of a past tense, like you still have pneumonia. Thanks for ignoring my unnecessary “A” at the start of my last sentence.

  9. George Haberberger
    October 25, 2014 - 9:01 am

    My wife and I visited Paris in 2012. On our second day while crossing a bridge over the Seine I was approached by two teenage girls with petitions taped to a piece of cardboard. They were very insistent that I sign it. I looked at it and it was a very poor photocopy of something about “deaf and dumb” which was all I could read since everything else was in French. I handed it back to them and said, “I’m sorry. I can’t sign something I can’t read.” They were very persistent, violating my personal space until I had to raise my voice and insist that they leave me alone. Which they did. Suddenly. About 3 minutes later I realized my cell phone was not in my shirt pocket. I ran back to the bridge but only one of the girls was still there and she began running when she saw me. I caught her but she denied taking my phone.

    Later at the police station, the gendarmes were amused. “Gypsies.” they said. “What can we do? They are only children.” I said, “Well it’s bad for tourism. I won’t be coming back.” They British couple I met at the police station had the same story but he was quite a bit more upset since they had been in Paris about 5 days and all their pictures were on that phone.

    I have since learned that this is a common practice. The police are very aware but do nothing. From the rest of our time in Paris I would see group of girls with petitions approaching tourists. I intervened a few times telling the tourists to be careful and that there girls were likely trying to steal from them. The tourists thanked my and the girls gave me very dirty looks except when I took their picture. Then they looked sad and forlorn while staring at the sidewalk.

    Whitney has written here a few times about her involvement with the gypsies and I have said nothing, but while I don’t begrudge them asking for handouts, (which is what the first one I encountered the day before was doing), I don’t think pick-pocketing should be ignored or condoned. I’m sure Whitney does not excuse it but apparently this is such a common practice that last year the Louvre was closed because so many tourists were complaining to the staff about having things stolen.

  10. Whitney
    November 4, 2014 - 3:52 pm

    Jorge, as they say in L.A….

    Let me begin by apologizing.

    You wrote a thoughtful and important comment on my last post. I wanted to respond to you in the same honest spirit.

    That day, I dropped my smartphone in the toilet.

    And my mother lost her balance and stumbled into the computer. Hard drive dead.

    Days later, new hard drive and new cell – but I hope my window of opportunity hasn’t closed to respond to you.

    I am also copying this response to last week’s post, where it would have been more timely…

    Last year when our group went to Paris after our work in Le Gua, our Gypsy host went with us. At a metro stop near the Louvre, some Gypsy kids came up asking us to read a petition. After Michel ordered them away and got dirty looks from them, he pulled us away. He said, “Stay away from them! They are Gypsies!”

    To this we said, “Michel…you are a Gypsy.”

    He said, “I know! They will rob me, too!”

    I know a young beautiful bride whose wedding dress was stolen from her caravan.

    People I have known within the community have been threatened with violence.

    I suspect that there is a system of vigilante justice that lacks mercy.

    But I have never encountered any problem. All of our gear is locked up safe in our tents behind a zipper and canvas…

    I don’t want to be naïve or unsympathetic. I know that I can be the victim of any and all things that you have experienced and that people have read about.

    But our group has been given safe passage for a time. I am grateful for it and don’t want to take it for granted. And we work with people with clean hearts who seek a better life for themselves and their children. They are watched by many eyes to see if they are genuine. So far, they have passed the test.

    ANY people group who is subjugated within a society through limited access to education, economic equality, freedom of worship, etc. will be faced with the hard choice of choosing a broad illicit path, or staying a narrow and difficult course that brings change….eventually.

    After WWII, the courts of the world decided that the genocide perpetuated against the Gypsy/Roma/Sinti people was an extreme but understandable response to a culture of endemic criminality. Only in the 1970s was that decision reversed and the mass murders deemed crimes against humanity. This delay in justice might partially be due to a high rate of illiteracy within the community because of being chased from place to place throughout generations.

    If you can not read or write, it is difficult to be a strong witness to the truth of events because you must depend on others to tell your story.

    This is where all can learn a lesson from the Jewish community: READ. WRITE. This allows truth to be told and for the heralds to run with it.

    What happened to you was wrong, George/Jorge. And I am so sorry that it did.

  11. George Haberberger
    November 4, 2014 - 4:44 pm

    Whitney,
    Thank you for your response. I understand that the gypsy communities have been subject to discrimination for centuries and as I said I do not begrudge them panhandling. At the time, it kind of cast a pallor on our trip but as my wife said, “it’s just an object.” Time has assuaged the resentment and I realize that I was probably considered a “rich American” just by virtue of being there. Compared to those girls, I guess I am rich. I hope they do not have to do stuff like that for the rest of their lives.
    It was largely an inconvenience. The British man was quite a bit more upset than me because of his photos. I usually use a camera for photos so that wasn’t an issue for us.
    Again, thank you for the response.

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